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Timeline

1892

Born: Romain de Tirtoff in St Petersburg, Russia. The only son of an admiral in the Imperial Fleet, he was raised amidst Russia’s social elite. As a young boy, he was fascinated by the Persian miniatures he found in his father’s library. These exotic brightly patterned designs continued to be important to him and influenced the development of his style.

1906

Begins to study painting with portraitist Ilya Repin and his pupil Lossevsky.

1912

Moves to Paris and takes the name Erté, from the French pronunciation of his initials, R and T. Studies at the Académie Julian with historical painter Jean-Paul Laurens, but dislikes the regimented structure of classes and leaves after several months to become a fashion designer. Contributes sketches to Russian fashion magazine 'Damsky Mir'.

1913

Signs a contract with the famous Parisian couturier Paul Poiret. Creates costumes for his first theatrical production 'Le Minaret', featuring Mata Hari. Contributes drawings to 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', leading fashion magazine of Paris. First use of signature Erté.

1914

Produces designs for Henri Bendel and Altman’s in New York. Submits designs to 'Harper’s Bazaar'.

1915

First cover design for 'Harper’s Bazaar' published in January, beginning his 22-year collaboration with Harper’s Bazaar, during which time he creates over 240 covers for the magazine

1916

Contributes work to 'Vogue' magazine. After six months, signs a ten-year exclusive contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'. First costume and set designs for music hall for Madame Rasmini’s Théâtre Bataclan in Paris

1917 - 1920

Creates costumes for revue 'Marvels of the Orient', starring Maurice Chevalier and Mistinguett at Théâtre Femina, Paris. First designs for Folies-Bergère. Works with Max Weldy, head of Folies-Bergère costume workshop, and learns about the architecture of the theatre and the mechanics of the stage. Erté will continue working for Folies-Bergère for the next eleven years. Costumes for Ganna Walska of Chicago Opera Company for 'La Bohème', I 'Pagliacci' and 'Faust', among others. Costume designs for the film 'Restless Sex', starring Marion Davies.

1920

Onwards. Erté dresses an extraordinary roster of opera, stage and screen stars, including Mary Garden, Josephine Baker, Marion Davies, Lillian Gish, Mata Hari and Anna Pavlova. These achievements earn him the title Father of Art Deco.

1922 - 1924

Costume and set designs for George White’s Scandals'; Irving Berlin’s 'Music Box Revue'; the Ziegfeld Follies and the Winter Garden in New York. His fashion designs appear in many publications, such as 'Harper’s Bazaar', 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', 'The Sketch', London and the 'Ladies’ Home Journal', making him one of the most widely recognized artists in the 1920s.

1925 - 1926

Goes to Hollywood for one year, at the invitation of Louis B Mayer, head of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, to design sets and costumes for the film Paris. Designs sets and costumes for other films including 'Ben Hur', 'The Mystic', 'Dance Madness', 'A Little Bit of Broadway', and King Vidor’s 'La Boheme' starring Lillian Gish. Signs second ten-year contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'.

1927 - 1930

Costume designs, among others, for Lucrezia Bori at the Metropolitan, New York, and for George White’s musical comedy 'Manhattan Mary' at the Majestic Theate, New York. Article and illustrations for 'The Encyclopaedia Britannica' (14th edition).

1931 - 1936

Creates covers, illustrations, advertising designs as well as costume and set designs for theatre and opera in Paris, New York, Chicago and London, including 'Faust and Don Pasquale' at Riga Opera and 'Au Temps des Merveilleuses' at Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris.

1937

After collaborating for more than 20 years, Erté resigns from 'Harper’s Bazaar' in a dispute with editor Carmel Snow. Costume and set designs for 'Plaisir de France' at Bal Tabarin; 'It’s in the Bag', by Cecil Landeau, at the Saville Theatre, London and the Scala Theatre, Berlin.

1938 - 1950

Costume and set designs for numerous productions including 'London Symphony', 'Black Velvet' and 'Puss in Boots', all at the Palladium, London; 'Fleet’s Lit Up', Hippodrome, London; 'Un Vrai Paradis', Bal Tabarin; 'Les Cent Vierges', Théâtre de l’Apollo, Paris; André Messager’s operetta Coupe de Roulis, Théâtre Marigny, Paris; Rossini’s 'The Barber of Seville' for French Television; Francis Poulenc’s opera 'Les Mamelles de Tiresias' and Maurice Ravel’s ballet 'Ma Mère l’Oye', both at Opéra-Comique, Paris; a revue at Opera House, Blackpool and 'Suenos de Viena' at Teatro Comico, Barcelona.

1951 - 1959

Costume and set designs for, among others, 'La Traviata', Paris Opera House; 'Fancy Free', Prince of Wales Theatre, London; 'Happy Go Lucky', Opera House, Blackpool; Mozart’s 'Cosi fan Tutte', Opéra-Comique, Paris; 'Caccia al Tesoro', Teatro delle Quattro Fontano, Rome; Jacques Ibert’s opera 'Gonzague' at Cannes and Rouen opera houses; and revues at Drap d’Or and Folies-Pigalle, Paris.

1960 - 1969

After a period of relative obscurity in the 1940s and 1950s, great revival of interest in Erté’s flamboyant style. Costume and set designs for Latin Quarter, New York; Racine’s 'Phèdre', Théâtre du Vieux Colombier, Paris; Robert Thomas’s 'Piège pour un Homme Seul', Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens; Rameau’s 'Castor et Pollux' at Théâtre Antique de Fourvières, Lyons Festival and Moulin Rouge, Paris. Creates designs for Louis Cuny’s ballet films 'Le Coiffeur-Miracle and édition Spéciale'.

1967

Costume and set design for 'Flying Colors', Expo ’67, Montreal.

1970 - 1975

Awarded the title 'Chevalier du Mérite, Artistique et Culturel' by the French government in 1970. Costume and set designs for 'Zizi, je t’aime', produced by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris ; Ragtime Ballet, Ballet Théâtre, Angers and for 'Schéhérazade', produced by Robert Hossein. Publication of autobiography 'Things I Remember'.

1976

Awarded the title Officer of Arts and Letters by the French government.

1977

Honoured with the Ziegfeld award for excellence at the Ziegfeld Ball, New York. Publication of the Alphabet portfolio, combining lithography and serigraphy.

1978

Honoured by the Eugene O’Neill Foundation at gala 'Broadway’s in Fashion' celebration, New York. TV film on Erté narrated by Diana Vreeland.

1979

French documentary 'Erté – Or a Magician in the Twentieth Century' released. Smithsonian Institution organises travelling retrospective exhibition touring the United States, Canada and Mexico for three years.

1980

Costume and set designs for Glyndebourne Opera’s performance of 'Der Rosenkavalier' by Richard Strauss. Erté Sculpture Collection and Jewelry series introduced based on his designs.

1981 - 1982

Publication of Erté at Ninety, showing all his prints since 1968. Awarded 'Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris'.

1983 - 1986

Continues producing designs for the stage and others, including posters for Folies-Bergères and Campari, a cover for 'Playboy' magazine as well as designs for Arthur Schnitzler’s 'Anatol', opening in Los Angeles. Collaborates on a musical autobiography 'Erté'. Awarded the Legion of Honour by France.

1987 - 1989

Publication of 'Erté at Ninety-Five: Extended Edition' with new graphic works. The Erté Gallery opens in Tokyo. Costume and set designs for new production of the musical 'Stardust' produced by Louise Westergaard as well as two acts of the 'Easter Show' at Radio City Music Hall, New York.

1990

Dies in Paris on 21st April. He is buried at the Cimitiere de Boulogne-Billancourt (Hauts de Seine).