Erté  (French, 1892-1990) 

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Erté (French, 1892–1990) is a designer and sculptor born in St. Petersburg, Russia, on November 23, 1892. Erté is a pseudonym for Romain de Tirtoff, and is the French pronunciation of the artist’s initials, R.T. He came from a distinguished Russian family, and his father served as an admiral in the Russian fleet. The artist moved to Paris, France, in 1912, and changed his name from Romain to Erté to avoid embarrassing his family, who wished that he would follow in his father's footsteps.

Erté worked for fashion designer Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944) from 1913 to 1914. In 1915, he landed a contract with Harper's Bazaar, illustrating and designing covers. Throughout his lifetime, the artist designed over 240 covers for that magazine. He was most famous for his fashion designs and was often called "The Father of Art Deco." He was also a costume and set designer, and some of the most notable silent films he worked on included Paris, Ben Hur, and Dance Madness. His most famous image is Symphony in Black, a serigraph of a woman wearing black holding a black dog. Other works include Lust and Pink Lady. During the 1940s and the 1950s, the artist fell into relative obscurity.

Then, in the 1960s, there was an increased interest in Erté’s work, and, in response, he created a series of sculptures and lithographs that revived the Art Deco movement. In 1970, the French government awarded him the title of Chevalier du Mérite, Artistique et Culturel. In 1976, he was awarded the title of Officer of Arts and Letters by the French government. In 1982, he received the Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris. His exhibitions include those held at the Knoedler Gallery in New York, NY, in 1920, the Galleria Milano in Milan, Italy, in 1965, and the Shiseido Gallery in Tokyo, Japan, in 1976. His work is included in the collections at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and Museum 1999 in Tokyo, Japan. Erté died on April 21, 1990, in Paris, France, at the age of 97.

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Erté, Patriots #6168

 

Erté
Patriots #6168
1968

Gallart.com
Erté, Socks

 

Erté
Socks
1930

Gallart.com
Erté, Design for Fabric #7346

 

Erté
Design for Fabric #7346
1937

Gallart.com
Erté, Feather Gown

 

Erté
Feather Gown
1985

Gallart.com
Erté, Le Mer Rouge

 

Erté
Le Mer Rouge
1928

Gallart.com
Erté, American Millionairess

 

Erté
American Millionairess
Barnett Fine Art, LLC
Erté, Femme de Luxe

 

Erté
Femme de Luxe
Barnett Fine Art, LLC
Erté, Chinese Legend

 

Erté
Chinese Legend
Barnett Fine Art, LLC
Erté, Amants

 

Erté
Amants
Barnett Fine Art, LLC
Past auction results (3297)  View All
Erté, Queen of the Night

 

Erté
Queen of the Night
serigraph

 

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Erté, L`Inoubliable Nuit, No. 45

 

Erté
L`Inoubliable Nuit, No. 45, 1917
gouache and ink on paper

 

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Erté, Untitled

 

Erté
Untitled
lithograph

 

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1892   Born: Romain de Tirtoff in St Petersburg, Russia. The only son of an admiral in the Imperial Fleet, he was raised amidst Russia’s social elite. As a young boy, he was fascinated by the Persian miniatures he found in his father’s library. These exotic brightly patterned designs continued to be important to him and influenced the development of his style.
1906   Begins to study painting with portraitist Ilya Repin and his pupil Lossevsky.
1912   Moves to Paris and takes the name Erté, from the French pronunciation of his initials, R and T. Studies at the Académie Julian with historical painter Jean-Paul Laurens, but dislikes the regimented structure of classes and leaves after several months to become a fashion designer. Contributes sketches to Russian fashion magazine 'Damsky Mir'.
1913   Signs a contract with the famous Parisian couturier Paul Poiret. Creates costumes for his first theatrical production 'Le Minaret', featuring Mata Hari. Contributes drawings to 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', leading fashion magazine of Paris. First use of signature Erté.
1914   Produces designs for Henri Bendel and Altman’s in New York. Submits designs to 'Harper’s Bazaar'.
1915   First cover design for 'Harper’s Bazaar' published in January, beginning his 22-year collaboration with Harper’s Bazaar, during which time he creates over 240 covers for the magazine
1916   Contributes work to 'Vogue' magazine. After six months, signs a ten-year exclusive contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'. First costume and set designs for music hall for Madame Rasmini’s Théâtre Bataclan in Paris
1917 - 1920   Creates costumes for revue 'Marvels of the Orient', starring Maurice Chevalier and Mistinguett at Théâtre Femina, Paris. First designs for Folies-Bergère. Works with Max Weldy, head of Folies-Bergère costume workshop, and learns about the architecture of the theatre and the mechanics of the stage. Erté will continue working for Folies-Bergère for the next eleven years. Costumes for Ganna Walska of Chicago Opera Company for 'La Bohème', I 'Pagliacci' and 'Faust', among others. Costume designs for the film 'Restless Sex', starring Marion Davies.
1920   Onwards. Erté dresses an extraordinary roster of opera, stage and screen stars, including Mary Garden, Josephine Baker, Marion Davies, Lillian Gish, Mata Hari and Anna Pavlova. These achievements earn him the title Father of Art Deco.
1922 - 1924   Costume and set designs for George White’s Scandals'; Irving Berlin’s 'Music Box Revue'; the Ziegfeld Follies and the Winter Garden in New York. His fashion designs appear in many publications, such as 'Harper’s Bazaar', 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', 'The Sketch', London and the 'Ladies’ Home Journal', making him one of the most widely recognized artists in the 1920s.
1925 - 1926   Goes to Hollywood for one year, at the invitation of Louis B Mayer, head of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, to design sets and costumes for the film Paris. Designs sets and costumes for other films including 'Ben Hur', 'The Mystic', 'Dance Madness', 'A Little Bit of Broadway', and King Vidor’s 'La Boheme' starring Lillian Gish. Signs second ten-year contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'.
1927 - 1930   Costume designs, among others, for Lucrezia Bori at the Metropolitan, New York, and for George White’s musical comedy 'Manhattan Mary' at the Majestic Theate, New York. Article and illustrations for 'The Encyclopaedia Britannica' (14th edition).
1931 - 1936   Creates covers, illustrations, advertising designs as well as costume and set designs for theatre and opera in Paris, New York, Chicago and London, including 'Faust and Don Pasquale' at Riga Opera and 'Au Temps des Merveilleuses' at Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris.
1937   After collaborating for more than 20 years, Erté resigns from 'Harper’s Bazaar' in a dispute with editor Carmel Snow. Costume and set designs for 'Plaisir de France' at Bal Tabarin; 'It’s in the Bag', by Cecil Landeau, at the Saville Theatre, London and the Scala Theatre, Berlin.
1938 - 1950   Costume and set designs for numerous productions including 'London Symphony', 'Black Velvet' and 'Puss in Boots', all at the Palladium, London; 'Fleet’s Lit Up', Hippodrome, London; 'Un Vrai Paradis', Bal Tabarin; 'Les Cent Vierges', Théâtre de l’Apollo, Paris; André Messager’s operetta Coupe de Roulis, Théâtre Marigny, Paris; Rossini’s 'The Barber of Seville' for French Television; Francis Poulenc’s opera 'Les Mamelles de Tiresias' and Maurice Ravel’s ballet 'Ma Mère l’Oye', both at Opéra-Comique, Paris; a revue at Opera House, Blackpool and 'Suenos de Viena' at Teatro Comico, Barcelona.
1951 - 1959   Costume and set designs for, among others, 'La Traviata', Paris Opera House; 'Fancy Free', Prince of Wales Theatre, London; 'Happy Go Lucky', Opera House, Blackpool; Mozart’s 'Cosi fan Tutte', Opéra-Comique, Paris; 'Caccia al Tesoro', Teatro delle Quattro Fontano, Rome; Jacques Ibert’s opera 'Gonzague' at Cannes and Rouen opera houses; and revues at Drap d’Or and Folies-Pigalle, Paris.
1967   Costume and set design for 'Flying Colors', Expo ’67, Montreal.
1960 - 1969   After a period of relative obscurity in the 1940s and 1950s, great revival of interest in Erté’s flamboyant style. Costume and set designs for Latin Quarter, New York; Racine’s 'Phèdre', Théâtre du Vieux Colombier, Paris; Robert Thomas’s 'Piège pour un Homme Seul', Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens; Rameau’s 'Castor et Pollux' at Théâtre Antique de Fourvières, Lyons Festival and Moulin Rouge, Paris. Creates designs for Louis Cuny’s ballet films 'Le Coiffeur-Miracle and édition Spéciale'.
1970 - 1975   Awarded the title 'Chevalier du Mérite, Artistique et Culturel' by the French government in 1970. Costume and set designs for 'Zizi, je t’aime', produced by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris ; Ragtime Ballet, Ballet Théâtre, Angers and for 'Schéhérazade', produced by Robert Hossein. Publication of autobiography 'Things I Remember'.
1976   Awarded the title Officer of Arts and Letters by the French government.
1977   Honoured with the Ziegfeld award for excellence at the Ziegfeld Ball, New York. Publication of the Alphabet portfolio, combining lithography and serigraphy.
1978   Honoured by the Eugene O’Neill Foundation at gala 'Broadway’s in Fashion' celebration, New York. TV film on Erté narrated by Diana Vreeland.
1979   French documentary 'Erté – Or a Magician in the Twentieth Century' released. Smithsonian Institution organises travelling retrospective exhibition touring the United States, Canada and Mexico for three years.
1980   Costume and set designs for Glyndebourne Opera’s performance of 'Der Rosenkavalier' by Richard Strauss. Erté Sculpture Collection and Jewelry series introduced based on his designs.
1981 - 1982   Publication of Erté at Ninety, showing all his prints since 1968. Awarded 'Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris'.
1983 - 1986   Continues producing designs for the stage and others, including posters for Folies-Bergères and Campari, a cover for 'Playboy' magazine as well as designs for Arthur Schnitzler’s 'Anatol', opening in Los Angeles. Collaborates on a musical autobiography 'Erté'. Awarded the Legion of Honour by France.
1987 - 1989   Publication of 'Erté at Ninety-Five: Extended Edition' with new graphic works. The Erté Gallery opens in Tokyo. Costume and set designs for new production of the musical 'Stardust' produced by Louise Westergaard as well as two acts of the 'Easter Show' at Radio City Music Hall, New York.
1990   Dies in Paris on 21st April. He is buried at the Cimitiere de Boulogne-Billancourt (Hauts de Seine).
2004   Erté/Opera & Ballets Russes/Dance: Theater Costume, Los Angeles County Museum, Los Angeles, CA (solo)
2004   Erté, Robert Sandelson, London, UK (solo)
2001   Erté Fascino e Seduzione Deco, Museo del Corso, Rome, Italy (solo)
1997   Follies and Fantasies, Grosvenor Gallery, London, UK (solo)
1988   Exhibition of Erté’s American productions, Grosvenor Gallery, London, UK (solo)
1987   Major 95th Birthday Retrospective, Shows throughout the United States (solo)
1986   Retrospective: '75 Ans de Création 1911-1986', Boulogne-Billancourt, Paris, France (solo)
1983   Grosvenor Gallery, London, UK
1982   Retrospective to celebrate Erté’s 90th birthday, Dyansen Gallery and Chalk & Vermilion, New York, NY (solo)
1982   Major exhibition in Copenhagen, Denmark
1978   Exhibition of his costumes for New York’s Latin Quarter, Boston Center for the Arts, Boston, MA (solo)
1977   Graphics Exhibition, Circle Galleries, New York, NY, Los Angeles, CA, San Francisco, CA, San Diego, CA and Chicago, IL (solo)
1977   Gallery in the Square, Boston, MA
1977   Cherry Creek Gallery of Fine Art, Denver, CO
1976   Shiseido Gallery, Tokyo, Japan
1975   Club dei Bibliofili, Milan, Bologna and Palermo, Italy
1975   Galeria Arvil, Mexico City, Mexico
1975   Rizzoli Gallery, New York, NY
1975   Galleria della Rocchetta, Parma, Parma
1975   Galleria Marino, Rome, Italy
1975   Galerie Proscenium, Paris, France
1969   Metropolitan Museum, New York, NY
1969   Neues Kunst-Zentrum, Hamburg; Galerie René Drouet, Paris, France
1969   Vincent Price Gallery, Chicago, IL
1967   Grosvenor Gallery, New York, NY; 170 works purchased in its entirety by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY
1967   Grosvenor Gallery, London, UK; Numerous works purchased by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK
1967   Galerie Jacques Perrin, Paris, France
1967   Galleria Viotti, Turin, Italy
1967   Galleria d’Arte Cavalletto, Brescia, Italy
1965   Les Années 25, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, France
1965   100 Years of Harper’s Bazaar, New York, NY
1965   Galerie Jacques Perrin, Paris, France
1965   Galerie Motte, Paris , France
1965   Galleria Milano, Milan, Italy
1936   Waldorf Astoria Hotel, New York, NY
1927 - 1930   Exhibitions at the Studio Gallery, Brussels, Belgium; Galerie Charpentier, Paris, France; and William E. Fox Gallery, New York, NY
1925 - 1926   Exhibitions at Madison Gallery, New York, NY and Galerie Charpentier, Paris, France
1920   Knoedler Gallery, New York, NY