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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) (Russian, 1892-1990)
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
'K' from the Alphabet Suite 1976
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
'S' from the Alphabet Suite 1976
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
Beauty and the Beast circa 1985
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
Duetto 1989
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
La Princesse Lointaine 1984
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Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
Liberte 1984
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Biography |
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1892 |
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Born Romain de Tirtoff in St Petersburg, Russia. The only son of an admiral in the Imperial Fleet, he was raised amidst Russia’s social elite. As a young boy, he was fascinated by the Persian miniatures he found in his father’s library. These exotic brightly patterned designs continued to be important to him and influenced the development of his style. |
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1906 |
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Begins to study painting with portraitist Ilya Repin and his pupil Lossevsky. |
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1912 |
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Moves to Paris and takes the name ErtÈ, from the French pronunciation of his initials, R and T. Studies at the AcadÈmie Julian with historical painter Jean-Paul Laurens, but dislikes the regimented structure of classes and leaves after several months to become a fashion designer. Contributes sketches to Russian fashion magazine 'Damsky Mir'. |
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1913 |
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Signs a contract with the famous Parisian couturier Paul Poiret. Creates costumes for his first theatrical production 'Le Minaret', featuring Mata Hari. Contributes drawings to 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', leading fashion magazine of Paris. First use of signature ErtÈ. |
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1914 |
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Produces designs for Henri Bendel and Altman’s in New York. Submits designs to 'Harper’s Bazaar'. |
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1915 |
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First cover design for 'Harper’s Bazaar' published in January, beginning his 22-year collaboration with Harper’s Bazaar, during which time he creates over 240 covers for the magazine |
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1916 |
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Contributes work to 'Vogue' magazine. After six months, signs a ten-year exclusive contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'. First costume and set designs for music hall for Madame Rasmini’s ThÈ‚tre Bataclan in Paris |
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1917 - 1920 |
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Creates costumes for revue 'Marvels of the Orient', starring Maurice Chevalier and Mistinguett at ThÈ‚tre Femina, Paris. First designs for Folies-BergËre. Works with Max Weldy, head of Folies-BergËre costume workshop, and learns about the architecture of the theatre and the mechanics of the stage. ErtÈ will continue working for Folies-BergËre for the next eleven years. Costumes for Ganna Walska of Chicago Opera Company for 'La BohËme', I 'Pagliacci' and 'Faust', among others. Costume designs for the film 'Restless Sex', starring Marion Davies. Exhibition at the Knoedler Gallery, New York. |
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1920 |
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Onwards. ErtÈ dresses an extraordinary roster of opera, stage and screen stars, including Mary Garden, Josephine Baker, Marion Davies, Lillian Gish, Mata Hari and Anna Pavlova. These achievements earn him the title Father of Art Deco. |
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1922 - 1924 |
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Costume and set designs for George White’s Scandals'; Irving Berlin’s 'Music Box Revue'; the Ziegfeld Follies and the Winter Garden in New York. His fashion designs appear in many publications, such as 'Harper’s Bazaar', 'La Gazette du Bon Ton', 'The Sketch', London and the 'Ladies’ Home Journal', making him one of the most widely recognized artists in the 1920s. |
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1925 - 1926 |
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Goes to Hollywood for one year, at the invitation of Louis B Mayer, head of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, to design sets and costumes for the film Paris. Designs sets and costumes for other films including 'Ben Hur', 'The Mystic', 'Dance Madness', 'A Little Bit of Broadway', and King Vidor’s 'La Boheme' starring Lillian Gish. Signs second ten-year contract with 'Harper’s Bazaar'. Exhibitions at Madison Gallery, New York and Galerie Charpentier, Paris. |
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1927 - 1930 |
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Costume designs, among others, for Lucrezia Bori at the Metropolitan, New York, and for George White’s musical comedy 'Manhattan Mary' at the Majestic Theate, New York. Article and illustrations for 'The Encyclopaedia Britannica' (14th edition). Exhibitions at the Studio Gallery, Brussels; Galerie Charpentier, Paris; and William E. Fox Gallery, New York. |
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1931 - 1936 |
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Creates covers, illustrations, advertising designs as well as costume and set designs for theatre and opera in Paris, New York, Chicago and London, including 'Faust and Don Pasquale' at Riga Opera and 'Au Temps des Merveilleuses' at ThÈ‚tre du Ch‚telet, Paris. Exhibition at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, New York. |
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1937 |
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After collaborating for more than 20 years, ErtÈ resigns from 'Harper’s Bazaar' in a dispute with editor Carmel Snow. Costume and set designs for 'Plaisir de France' at Bal Tabarin; 'It’s in the Bag', by Cecil Landeau, at the Saville Theatre, London and the Scala Theatre, Berlin. |
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1938 - 1950 |
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Costume and set designs for numerous productions including 'London Symphony', 'Black Velvet' and 'Puss in Boots', all at the Palladium, London; 'Fleet’s Lit Up', Hippodrome, London; 'Un Vrai Paradis', Bal Tabarin; 'Les Cent Vierges', ThÈ‚tre de l’Apollo, Paris; AndrÈ Messager’s operetta Coupe de Roulis, ThÈ‚tre Marigny, Paris; Rossini’s 'The Barber of Seville' for French Television; Francis Poulenc’s opera 'Les Mamelles de TirÈsias' and Maurice Ravel’s ballet 'Ma MËre l’Oye', both at OpÈra-Comique, Paris; a revue at Opera House, Blackpool and 'Suenos de Viena' at Teatro Comico, Barcelona. |
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1951 - 1959 |
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Costume and set designs for, among others, 'La Traviata', Paris Opera House; 'Fancy Free', Prince of Wales Theatre, London; 'Happy Go Lucky', Opera House, Blackpool; Mozart’s 'Cosi fan Tutte', OpÈra-Comique, Paris; 'Caccia al Tesoro', Teatro delle Quattro Fontano, Rome; Jacques Ibert’s opera 'Gonzague' at Cannes and Rouen opera houses; and revues at Drap d’Or and Folies-Pigalle, Paris. |
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1965 - 1966 |
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Exhibits at 'Les AnnÈes 25' at the MusÈe des Arts DÈcoratifs, Paris; 1'00 Years of Harper’s Bazaar', New York; Galerie Jacques Perrin, Paris; Galerie Motte, Paris and Galleria Milano, Milan. |
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1967 |
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Exhibitions at the Grosvenor Gallery, New York which was purchased in its entirety (170 works) by the Metropolitan Museum, New York, and at the Grosvenor Gallery, London, where numerous works were purchased by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Shows at Galerie Jacques Perrin, Paris; Galleria Viotti, Turin and Galleria d’Arte Cavalletto, Brescia. Costume and set design for 'Flying Colors', Expo ’67, Montreal. |
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1960 - 1969 |
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After a period of relative obscurity in the 1940s and 1950s, great revival of interest in ErtÈ’s flamboyant style. Costume and set designs for Latin Quarter, New York; Racine’s 'PhËdre', ThÈ‚tre du Vieux Colombier, Paris; Robert Thomas’s 'PiËge pour un Homme Seul', ThÈ‚tre des Bouffes Parisiens; Rameau’s 'Castor et Pollux' at ThÈ‚tre Antique de FourviËres, Lyons Festival and Moulin Rouge, Paris. Creates designs for Louis Cuny’s ballet films 'Le Coiffeur-Miracle and »dition Speciale'. |
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1968 - 1969 |
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Exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum, New York; Neues Kunst-Zentrum, Hamburg; Galerie RenË Drouet, Paris and Vincent Price Gallery, Chicago. |
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1970 - 1975 |
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Awarded the title 'Chevalier du MÈrite, Artistique et Culturel' by the French government in 1970. Costume and set designs for 'Zizi, je t’aime', produced by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris ; Ragtime Ballet, Ballet ThÈ‚tre, Angers and for 'SchÈhÈrazade', produced by Robert Hossein. Publication of autobiography 'Things I Remember'. Exhibitions at Galeria Arvil, Mexico City; Rizzoli Gallery, New York; Galleria della Rocchetta, Parma; Galleria Marino, Rome; Galerie Proscenium Paris; and Club dei Bibliofili of Milan, Bologna and Palermo. |
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1976 |
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Awarded the title Officer of Arts and Letters by the French government. Exhibition at the Shiseido Gallery, Tokyo. |
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1977 |
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Honoured with the Ziegfeld award for excellence at the Ziegfeld Ball, New York. Publication of the Alphabet portfolio, combining lithography and serigraphy. Graphics exhibition at Circle Galleries, New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego and Chicago; Gallery in the Square, Boston; and Cherry Creek Gallery of Fine Art, Denver. |
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1978 |
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Honoured by the Eugene O’Neill Foundation at gala 'Broadway’s in Fashion' celebration, New York. TV film on ErtÈ narrated by Diana Vreeland. Exhibition of his costumes for New York’s Latin Quarter at the Boston Center for the Arts. |
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1979 |
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French documentary 'ErtÈ – Or a Magician in the Twentieth Century' released. Smithsonian Institution organises travelling retrospective exhibition touring the United States, Canada and Mexico for three years. |
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1980 |
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Costume and set designs for Glyndebourne Opera’s performance of 'Der Rosenkavalier' by Richard Strauss. ErtÈ Sculpture Collection and Jewelry series introduced based on his designs. |
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1981 - 1982 |
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Retrospective shows and galas to celebrate ErtÈ’s 90th birthday at the Dyansen Gallery and Chalk & Vermilion, New York. Major exhibition in Copenhagen, Denmark. Publication of ErtÈ at Ninety, showing all his prints since 1968. Awarded 'Medaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris'. |
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1983 - 1986 |
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Continues producing designs for the stage and others, including posters for Folies-BergËres and Campari, a cover for 'Playboy' magazine as well as designs for Arthur Schnitzler’s 'Anatol', opening in Los Angeles. Collaborates on a musical autobiography 'ErtÈ'. Awarded the Legion of Honour by France. Exhibition at the Grosvenor Gallery, London; and retrospective show '75 Ans de Creation 1911-1986', at Boulogne-Billancourt, Paris. |
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1987 - 1989 |
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Major 95th birthday retrospective shows throughout the United States. Exhibition of ErtÈ’s American productions at Grosvenor Gallery, London. Publication of 'ErtÈ at Ninety-Five: Extended Edition' with new graphic works. The ErtÈ Gallery opens in Tokyo. Costume and set designs for new production of the musical 'Stardust' produced by Louise Westergaard as well as two acts of the 'Easter Show' at Radio City Music Hall, New York. |
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1990 |
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Dies in Paris on 21st April. He is buried at the Cimitiere de Boulogne-Billancourt (Hauts de Seine). |
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1997 |
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Exhibition 'Follies and Fantasies', Grosvenor Gallery, London |
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2001 |
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Exhibition 'ErtÈ Fascino e Seduzione DÈco', Museo del Corso, Rome |
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2003 - 2004 |
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Exhibition 'ErtÈ/Opera & Ballets Russes/Dance: Theater Costume', Los Angeles County Museum, Los Angeles |
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2004 |
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Exhibition 'ErtÈ', Robert Sandelson, London |
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The designs created by Erté during his long and illustrious life influenced not only the world of theatre, film and fashion, but an entire art movement as well. The genius of the artist is evidenced by an enormous body of work that is considered among the most influential and unique of the 20th century. Erté—Romain de Tirtoff—was born in Russia in 1892, and died at age 97 in 1990. His legendary career spanned nearly the entire length of his life. In 1912, Erte moved to Paris and his unique talent was immediately recognized by the city’s most established couturiers. In 1915, he began an association with Harper’s Bazaar by designing covers of each of their magazines for the next 22 years. The influence of his work as a result of the high visibility of this periodical influenced an entire art movement that was to become known as “Art Deco”. Throughout this period, the artist also created original costume and fashion designs for many of the era’s most renowned screen actresses, including Joan Crawford, Lillian Gish, Marion Davies, Anna Pavlova, Norma Shearer and others. His creations for the stage included extravagent designs for productions at such venues as New York’s Radio City Music Hall, the Casino de Paris and the Paris Opera, as well as for the Folies-Bergères and George White’s Scandals. At the age of 75, Erté was encouraged to embark on a new career and began to recreate the remarkable designs of his youth in bronze and serigraphy. The Art Deco movement was hence reborn. A lifetime of international success and recognition has ensured this unique artist's place in the annals of art history, and his original designs grace the permanent collections of prestigious museums throughout the world including New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museum of Modern Art, the Smithsonian Institution and London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. |
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