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Horst P. Horst    (German/American, 1906-1999)

 Horst P. Horst - Lisa with Harp (Photographs) h: 20 x w: 16 in / h: 50.8 x w: 40.6 cm
Horst P. Horst
Lisa with Harp 1939
 
 Horst P. Horst - Round The Clock 1 (Photographs) h: 20 x w: 16 in / h: 50.8 x w: 40.6 cm
Horst P. Horst
Round The Clock 1 1987
 
 

Biography
1926 - 1928 Studied architecture at the Kunstgewerbeschule, Hamburg
1930 Student-apprentice, studio of the architect Le Corbusier, Paris
1932 - 1935 Photographer, with George Hoyningen-Huene, in Vogue magazine studios, Conde Nast Publications, Paris and in New York, since 1935
1935 Emigrated to the US
1942 Educated at the Oberrealschule, Weissenfels
1942 - 1945 Served in US Army: Technical Sergeant
1952 - 1970 Maintained Horst Studio, New York
When Horst P Horst began to photograph for Vogue in 1932, fashion photography was still largely in thrall to the style introduced by Steichen in the 1920's and subsequently refined by Hoyningen-Huene. Horst, who had originally come to Paris to study architecture with Le Corbusier, turned instead to photography after making the aquaintance of Hoyningen-Huene, and his own earliest work echoes Hoyningen-Huene's cool classicism. Models were photographed with meticulous precision under artificial lights; studio sets were austere; backgrounds were plain or severly geometric.

Within a few years, however, Horst developed a more frankly oranamental style that was unmistakably his own. His combination of extravagant visual fantasy and vibrant sensuality sets his fashion photography quite apart from those of Vogue's two other principal photographers of the 1930's, Steichen and Cecil Beaton. Gradually introducing more imaginatively furnished sets and drapery, Horst arranged his tableaux with an eye for elegant undulating lines and sophisticated lighting effects. Amid rich surroundings, his model's face might be thrown unexpectedly into silhouette, giving rise to a mood of calculated mystery and anticipation.

In addition to his fashion photographs, Horst produced during the 1930's a series of highly regarded portraits of the leading personalities of the day, including Dietrich, Dali, Cocteau, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Often done outside the studio, these portraits lack the formal perfection of Horst's fashion work, but effectively transmit the air of sometimes desperate gaiety that marked the period between the wars. Although he remains active, and has published highly successful interior studies and patterned abstractions from natural forms, Horst continues to be irrevocably linked with the sensibility of the 1930's.
--Christopher Phillips1906 Born in Weissenfels, Germany


Exhibitions
2001 National Portrait Gallery, London -solo
2000 Horst Form at Hamiltons Gallery, London -solo
1999 Horst.P.Horst at Hamiltons Gallery, London -solo
1985 Das Aktfoto, Fotomuseum im Stadtmuseum, Munich (travelled to Frankfurt, Vienna and Dortmund)
1984 International Center of Photography, New York (retrospective; travelled to Montreal, Venice, Florence, and London, 1985-86) -solo
Staley Wise Gallery, New York- solo
1982 Staley Wise Gallery, New York -solo
Lichtbildnisse: Das Portrat in der Fotografie, Rheinisches landesmuseum, Bonn
Color As Form, International Museum of Photography, Rochester, New York
1981 Galerie Contretype, Brussels -solo
1980 Sonnabend Gallery, New York -solo
La Mode, Galerie Zabriskie, Paris
Allure, International Center of Photography, New York
1979 Fleeting Gestures:: Dance Photography, International Center of Photography, New York (travelled to The Photographers Gallery, London and Venezia '79)
The Fashionable World, Stephen White Gallery, Los Angeles
1978 Galerie Sonnabend, Paris -solo
1977 Sonnabend Gallery, New York -solo
1976 Sonnabend Gallery, New York -solo
1975 Fashion 1900-1939, Victoria and Albert Museum, London
1974 Sonnabend Gallery, New York -solo
1958 Sagittarius Gallery, New York -solo
Country Art Gallery, Westbury, New York -solo
1938 German Seligman Gallery, New York -solo
1932 Galerie La Plume d'Or, Paris -solo
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